Hello,
Even though I have been surfing for some time now, every now and then I see myself in this pathetic situation, where I paddle for the wave (usually when it's hollow), but the board seems to get "stuck" on top of the wave, eventually behind the lip. I see other guys paddling for the same waves, and it's like their board "sink" enough on the wave that they can take off just slightly before the wave breaks (did I mention this happens when it's hollow?).
On this situation it feels that if I resume taking off, I will go over the falls, because the board didn't slide on the wave early enough. on these days I see at least a dozen surfers paddling and perfectly taking off on most waves, while I get stuck behind, which sucks. What am I doing wrong? I already checked the tips for paddling, very helpful btw, just wandering what else might be the problem.
Any help will be apprecited.
I didn't find the right solution from the Internet.
References:
http://forum.realsurf.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19224
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Thank you.