Greetings from the Seychelles everyone!

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Greetings from the Seychelles everyone!

Beitragvon agnesjacob180 » 15.05.2019, 21:18

Hi all,

I'm Agnes Jacob, 26 yrs old and living in the beautiful Seychelles since 5 years now having moved from Ireland.
I've been lurking on this forum for the past year and would like to say thanks for all the laughs and awesome tips/advice!

I've been surfing for 1 year now. It's funny you know, i've never ever been exposed to surfing AT ALL and in any form, did not know what it was except for seeing clips in a hollywood movie when i was a kid i think, until christmas day 2016 when i saw a surfer shredding for the first timein my life at a beach and I Immediately got a wave of excitement and curiosity wash over me (pun intended) and i instantly KNEW this is what i'm doing now.
And so I spent the next year reading and watching everything i could about surfing, waves, the ocean etc and taught myself how to swim because i never learnt and knew i had to and then just played in the waves with a kids bodyboard i found to get used to waves, this is how dedicated and hooked i was before even touching a board!

Then i got my 7'6" soft top online(theres only one surf shop in the country with 4 mega pricey boards and no fins, leashes, wax etc) and started learning myself with the help of you tube and this forum as there is only one surf school here part of four seasons hotel (also super pricey).

BEcause of work, i can only surf dawn patrol, which i do 2- 7 days a week in warm turquoise waters with no one in the water or on the beach. (i'm a safety first guy so i still play it safe)
There arent many surfers here so i've actually never ever surfed with other people in the water before, like never! there are many breaks all within like 20 minute drive so every crew has there own break pretty much and i have my two local breaks all to myself, everytime ( a beachy and a gentle reef). Can be a bit lonely sometimes but the other surfers surf bigger, gnarly reefs that im not ready for.
I now got two 2nd hand boards( 7'8" and 6'3") from a client of mine who left the country and a proper bodyboard for the bigger/hollow days and low tide reef break , but i still mainly use my soft top and am mainly working on paddling, pop up and bottom turn.

I'm sorry for the long ramble, thats my surfing life so far anyway, i decided to be member to share the stoke with fellow wave riders and to learn!

Thanks everyone and peace out!

Reference:
https://surfing-waves.com/forum/

why choose expensive animated videos
agnesjacob180
ahnungslos
 
Beiträge: 1
Registriert: 15.05.2019, 21:10

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