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The west wind had become a stiff breeze that was cleaning up the swell even as we walked down the small hill to the jump off spot. As the wave rolled up the gully I dived off allowing the backwash to suck me into the rip which pulls you straight into the lineup. Roger was right behind shouting about how cool the water was and how perfect the waves were and about how wonderful it was to be in the water. The first set loomed and I stroked hard fighting to overcome the rip and the suck of the wave. I felt my board move under me and took another stroke to be sure that I was in.
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The sun was just bursting out from behind the cloud as I stood up and dropped into a square 4ft sandy chocolate barrel that seemed to get wider and wider. The world and all its problems receded into oblivion as I shot out of the dry mouth of the beast and into the glowing twilight. I started to paddle back and watched as Roger pulled in to a thick section that seemed to have a will of its own, his shape a silhouette behind the dark curtain and then when I thought it impossible that he would make it, he shot into the light only to be swallowed whole by the closeout tube screaming the other way.
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Grinding barrels, and spectacular wipeouts followed as we hooted and raved our way through this memorable session with not a soul in sight.
It was quite dark when we got back to the car and the mist was thick but you could sense the feeling of well being that even the mist could not dampen. As we drove home we talked less but had more to say. |
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Louis and Roger run Dawnpatrol, a surf tour operator based in East Londonon South Africa's south east coast.They and their support team move up and down the coast, surfing the best waves on offer between Jeffrey’s Bay and the Natal South Coast Check out their site on www.dawnpatrol.co.za.
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