Skookumchucks Narrow und Lochsa River
Elijah Mack
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My cousin Troy and my "pops" replica uhren Victor have been pushing and guiding me for the past 3 years to get to this wave. "Pops i love you! i know you are not just watching over me but watching from within me i know you are seeing-feeling all of this. thank you for believing. Thank you dad!" "Troy i know you are still on my right hand, keeping me a right man. I love you -Big Cuz. I'm Hear!" with that said i slipped over the 10ft ledge and dropped into THE seam of the wave that seperates the pit(hole) from the greem wave face.
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instantly i was sucked up into the spinning lip. i felt my fins break out as i side slipped on my stomach into the surging barrel section that was starting to heave out just as i had paddled on. my fins cuaght at the bottom of the barrel as the lip exploded on my back forceing me out in front of the wave pushing me back towards the pit. the steepness and speed of the on-coming slab of water wanted to rip the nose of my board right out from under me and send me rag dolled in the "Truck eater" down current to the bottom of the 30ft deep pool behind the wave. later in the trip i would spent close to 20 seconds down here, most of the time spent moving gentle along the bottom at a mellow pace, kinda peaceful-except i was not moving upwards.
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fetter geht es nicht mehr - Elijah Mack
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I got my inside edge set and in a half a second i was shot up and out onto the open green face. i got set into my foot straps. i colleted myself. i looked at the massive pool of water up above me march over the ledge and rush underneath the board. and then i arched my back. bent my knees. set and edge. touched my fingers into the face and carved a backside roundhouse cutback into my destiny. but my destiny was not the wave. it was not the river. it was not Africa. it wasn't the fulfillment of acheiving a goal i had set 5 years prior. it was nothing i could show you. All of these great things in my life. My family. My Friends. My bussiness. and this wave that i am riding that people have only though existed in their dreams. My destiny was to see all of these things. and to put them in order. and as every cell in my body was overwhelmed with the undecribable joy of surfing the most perfect wave in the world, all i could think of was getting home to see the top of the list. (see prior paragraph)
Aloha Mack |
